By Rick Whitaker
My apartment at West 109 and Amsterdam is now my favorite place on the Upper West Side. That was far from true when I moved in at 22 in 1990 when its roughness matched both the building and neighborhood. Very late one night, with open windows and hardly any furniture to soften noise, a huge Rottweiler fought a tomcat below in the courtyard. I’ll spare you the outcome of that vicious fight, but it did not serve as a genteel welcome to the neighborhood.
I lucked into renting the Wild West apartment when Jenny McPhee, an UWS native from a legendary family came up to me at work (we were both editorial assistants at Knopf) and said a friend was moving out of a rent-stabilized apartment, and if I would pay the landlord what her friend owed him, I could sign a lease and have my own place (I’d been sharing a small apartment on … Staten Island, so she figured I deserved it). Somehow, on my poverty-wages salary, I came up with the $1600 that same day and went up to 109th St. where I met the landlord, gave him the cash, and signed the lease. I don’t know how I could’ve stayed in New York without the apartment, and I certainly couldn’t have adopted my son David for whom I needed, of course, a spare bedroom.
The neighborhood at the time was crazy dangerous, nothing at all like it is now. Barack Obama had lived down the block, but he’d gone on to greener pastures by then. After I was mugged the one and only time, I called the police and they put me in their squad car to look for the culprit. On the police radio there was an announcement of a major crime within a few blocks every 15 seconds: rape, murder, robbery, one thing after another. The detective assigned to my case — 6’5” with a necklace that said #1 DAD — sat on a stoop the next day until the thief walked by, robbing someone else with his broken gun and broken English. I went to the grand jury and testified against him, and he went to jail, but I felt pretty bad for him. When he approached me and stuck his gun in my back he’d said he was collecting a $50 debt for someone else. So we went to the ATM inside the D’Agostino’s at 110 and Broadway. I took out 3 twenties and asked him for $10 change. He said the extra $10 was his tip, and we both laughed. Then I used a pay phone to call 911.
Skip ahead a very quick 30 years to April 2020 when I found myself, like everyone else, spending an inordinate amount of time indoors, alone, befuddled, lonely, and anxious. Eventually, I realized that one thing I could do to make myself feel better was to improve my apartment, something I’d wanted to do for a long time, so I installed some vinyl flooring, some peel and stick wallpaper, and most importantly I bought a bunch of plants and would keep buying plants right up to the present. I’m at least as fond of my plants as I am of any… oh, never mind. I love them. They’re quiet and just the right amount of company. Then a friend inherited some furniture from an artist who lived downtown, and after she paid to store the stuff for a year she decided to give it away. I was the only one who followed through, so I got it all, including a beautiful mid-century dining table, a Hans Wegner rocking chair, some other furniture, and some paintings by the artist, the late Madeleine Gekiere. I had already been collecting art for a long time, and ever since working at Knopf I’ve collected books. So now my apartment is pretty well filled with good books, artwork, and plants, and I find myself reluctant to leave, even when I should, even when I have to go to work eight blocks away. For whatever reason I don’t feel lonely very much anymore and I love being home by myself though of course I also love being outside and doing things on the UWS as I have for 32 years at the same address. Where else would I live?
What’s your favorite place on the Upper West Side? Tell us where and why in 600 words or less and email it to carol@westsiderag.com. Please include at least one horizontal photo.
Love this!!! Been on 111 and Bway since 1990 !!
Danny
Clearly a place perfectly tailored to its residents’ sensibilities. North of 96th St. is a seriously underrated part of the neighborhood, but let’s keep that between us; rents are high enough already.
One of the true luxuries of a life in New York, if you can ever find it, is walking to work. (Another used to be having a car in the city for when you want it, but really that pales in comparison and seems increasingly pointless.) Maybe that’s less true now with so much WFH, but it still feels true…and if you love your home neighborhood and your work neighborhood is OK, you are really in luck. Doesn’t even really matter which borough or neighborhood you are in ( tho of course UWS is choice) – really brings the best of the NYC village to the heart of your daily life.
I’ve known 5 people who lived 50+ years in the same apartments. One really suffered in his last years from no longer being able to manage the stairs in his walk-up. If you can avoid that trap, there are few better places to age, too.
Very telling that you rode around with the cops looking for the thug who robbed you. He deserved prison. Today NYPD would just take a report because no cop will risk his career arresting a perp anymore. So the good people of the UWS are on their own now.
Where on Staten Island were you renting?
“Creating” your very own apartment is one of life’s joys.. My first apt was offered to me by someone who was moving to California. Pay the next month’s rent & sign a lease. That was 1968, corner of Bank Street & West 4th, on the sixth floor of a walk-up. It was a mess when I moved in – holes in the wall which I plastered and then wallpapered everything. . Ceiling lights that still had traces of gas! Rent-controlled. It was a sweetheart when i was done. Could see the Empire State Bldg looking east and the World Trade Center south. But after all thioe years those 72 steps became too challenging & last spring I moved to West 147th and Riiverside Drive. A whole new world plus an elevator
Peel and stick wallpaper: my grandfather made a great deal of money during the Depression by selling that stuff. People bought it in the 1930s for the same reason that the author of this article did!
Love this, thanks for sharing. I have something similar, just not as many years, or plants (yet). Your apartment looks so joyous inside, enjoy!
I don’t blame you, it is a wonder palace, just my taste too! Enjoy!
This resonates with me like you wouldn’t believe! I was born in Manhattan and raised first in the south Bronx and then in Throggs Neck , the Bronx. …kind of considered the burbs of the Bronx. By my early 20s I was working in Manhattan and dreamed of living in the “city”. At 26 a boyfriend (ex) knew a big shot book seller and asked if he knew of any apartments for me….he did…I’m not naming names! I got an appointment with big real estate owner for rent stable apartment on first floor (4 rooms!!!!)..
We met and I negotiated rent down from $800 to $550….I had chutzpah ! The shower was in the kitchen next to a stove….there was wall to wall linoleum (underneath was hardwood floors) , the bedroom had no windows and it was on the first floor….the doormen congregated outside the kitchen window. I worked for Random House at the time. Three much higher ups at the company lived in the area and it was the only way to convince my father that I could live there. The neighborhood wasn’t great. Crack. There is much more to this story as I met my Israeli husband in the building and we are still together 34 years later. We moved from first apt, to 2nd where we got married in the anpt by a judge annd then boat house, and now we are in a 3rd (last) 2-bedroom for many, many years. I hope more NYers and transients can share our dream and love of NYC!
I love everything about this story and gave me the first smile of the day reading it 🙂